Tucked away in the South Devon countryside on the banks of the River Dart is the magnificent town of Totnes. From its humble beginnings and how the town has developed and grown, Totnes has much to offer visitors that come in their thousands each year.
Early Totnes
According to legend, Brutus of Troy – the founder of Britain – first stepped ashore from what is now known as the River Dart. He placed his foot onto a granite rock and declared this place to be named Totnes. The rock can be found set into the pavement on Fore Street.
It is written in this Totnes history site that it was founded in 907 by Edward, Alfred the Great’s eldest son. He built a settlement to act as a safe haven from Viking attacks.
Totnes has a fine example of a ‘motte and bailey castle, which was built sometime after the Norman conquest. It was built by Judhael, initially favoured by William the Conquerer, but who later fell out of his favour and his bestowed lands lost. The people of Totnes, which was now in decline, promoted their cloth trade, re-establishing Totnes as a wealthy town. It was given oral charter status by King John in 1206.
A Flourishing Town
Some 300 years on, Totnes had become one of the wealthiest towns in Devon from its cloth trade and also the tin mining industry that had grown and flourished.
There is an interesting twist emerging here that, according to the fables of Clive Cussler in his book, Trojan Odyssey, he references the ancient Celts and that Helen of Troy and the story of the Trojan Horse, happened on England’s south coast. The treasure being sought and fought over was tin, an essential ingredient in the making of bronze. There would have been no Bronze Age without tin. He writes part fact and much fiction, but his references to the writings of Homer that simply do not describe a Mediterranean landscape – English, make the fiction seem more factual. Who knows?
Despite the decline in the cloth trade, by the 1700s, the town had diversified as a trading town with a rich agricultural all around and the Dart providing a shipping route in and out of the town.
Bridgetown
In 1828 a stone bridge over the Dart was built. It replaced the previous structure that looked very much like the design that still stands at Lostwithiel in Cornwall. A new town, Bridgetown, started to be developed, which was later brought into the borough. The Duke of Somerset was largely responsible for these large, expensive developments and the family name, Seymour, still retains ownership of much of Totnes buildings, dwellings and the castle ruins.
Recent History
Into the 20th century and Totnes as a market centre started to dwindle, but was saved by trade in bacon (and pigs), dairy produce and timber merchants. However, now in the 21st century, this trade has gone and the buildings supporting it are now supermarkets or housing.
Today, Totnes very much relies on tourism to prosper. This it does exceedingly well.
What to See and Do in Totnes
Visitors to Totnes High Street and Fore Street are greeted by a wonderful parade of mostly independent shops, tea rooms, cafes, restaurants, pubs and hotels. The town has been in the news a few times from my recollection, fiercely fighting the council to fend off chain shops. There are a few chain shops and stores, but I think these are in good balance with the plethora of independents. The retailers of the town seem to fit nicely. It has made Totnes a place where you visit to do things – go shopping, have a meal, have an afternoon tea, take a walk around town, and so on. It’s wonderfully leisurely.
East Gate Arch
As Fore Street meets High Street, East Gate Arch spans across the street with a clock central on both sides. It was originally built as the gateway to the medieval town. Unfortunately, it was ravaged by fire and, in 1990, was rebuilt to its former glory. It is a prominent and much-cherished feature of the town centre.
The River Dart & Vire Island
At the bottom end of town is the River Dart that widens and flows out to the Dart Estuary at Dartmouth. As a navigable river, there used to be a paddle steamer service between Dartmouth and Totnes. Today, there is a pleasure boat service operating in the warmer months. The Steam Packet Inn is a lovely establishment to visit for refreshments, something to eat or a place to stay.
Vire Island is named after the French town that Totnes is twinned with. it stretches south from the bridge and, to its west side, it looks almost like a canal – home to a few boats and lovely waterside properties. To its east side, the wider river flows. The island mass comprises trees and parkland with benches to take a stroll or sit and enjoy the river.
The article, On the Dart, provides more information about Totnes and its relationship to the Dart.
There is a spoof or two that the island was floated from Vire many years ago as a thank-you gesture and that the French now want it back because of BREXIT.
Totnes Castle
A fine example of a Norman motte and bailey design, Totnes Castle is now managed and maintained by Engling Heritage. It’s within easy walking distance from the town centre and, although a bit of a climb, it has amazing views over Totnes, the Dart and miles beyond on a clear day.
Totnes Pubs and Restaurants
Aside from the mentioned Steam Packet Inn, there is an abundance of pubs, inns and restaurants all over the town.
The Royal Seven Stars Hotel is found at the entrance to Fore Stree from the river. An imposing building built in 1680 that has played host to royalty and even Daniel Defoe back in 1720. Eat, drink or stay at this wonderful old building with plenty of stories hidden in its walls.
The King William IV is further up the main street on the right, serving great food and refreshments.
The Bay Horse is also quite central in town and serves delicious food and refreshments.
Staying in Totnes
As well as the fine inns and the hotel I’ve mentioned, there are many hotels, guest houses, B&Bs and holiday parks in and around Totnes and south Devon. It’s a great town to use as a base for a holiday or short break to see more of Devon and maybe Cornwall as well.
Book a great break from this list of holiday properties in Totnes and south Devon.
Fancy some reading while relaxing on your holiday? Grab a book on Totnes to take with you.
