One of my favourite places to visit that is so popular with many photographers is the stretch of coast between Padstow and Newquay, known as Carnewas and Bedruthan Steps.
It’s a magical place with a rugged coastline that changes every time I visit. At high tide, there is very little beach to see below. As the waters recede, the most amazing golden sands are revealed with giants of rock formations that are like small islands. The Cornish for Carnewas is Karn-Havos, meaning rock-pile of summer dwelling.
I’ve visited this area three times and found that mid-May is particularly good, due to the little pink and yellow spring flowers that adorn the clifftops. You see these in my photos taken on my first visit, which was purely by chance when my wife and I had arrived at Newquay airport a little too early to pick up our daughter. The evening shots were taken with my phone, which just goes to show that there’s no real need for snazzy gear in this area. Just point and shoot at the splendour that unfolds along the coast path.
Visiting Carnewas and Bedruthan Steps
Having visited the first time, I was back there again with my wife a couple of weeks later. We’re National Trust members, which is really handy for the NT car park, along with a tea room and toilet facilities. There’s a small charge for non-NT members in the car park. On a nice day in summer, I’d advise arriving early – it gets very busy during the day. Or, maybe plan an evening visit.
Take the B3276 heading north out of Trenance and Mawgan Porth. There’s a lane to the left marked Carnewas. This lane leads to the NT car park.
I didn’t plan any routes when I visited, but there is a 5-mile circular walk, which is very easy to follow. From the NT car park, amble north along the coast path and out onto the headland to reach Park Head, and on further to Porth Mear. Then head back via Pentire Farm and Pentire Steps until back onto the coast path leading back to the NT Car Park.
It’s a good idea to plan a visit on a nice day. However, windy days make for spectacular sea states that won’t disappoint scenery lovers like me. I think overcast and dull days might not pack nearly as much punch as brighter days with some cloud, especially if a stunning sunset is on the agenda.
Rock Islands
I mentioned the island-like rocks that stand alone in the seas and then in the sand when the tide goes out. They have names: the northernmost rock is known as Diggory’s Island. Moving south there is Queen Bess Rock, Samaritan Island, Bedruthan Steps, Redcove Island, Pendarves Island and Carnewas Island being due west of the NT Car Park.
Seals
It’s worth noting that this area is frequented by seals. Hunker in the cliff tops from a safe vantage point and simply wait – perhaps with a flask of hot drink and a bite to eat. I’m always amazed when seals just turn up and play around in the water, seemingly without a care in the world.
The whole area has been awarded Dark Sky status, which means there is very little light pollution. This makes for exciting opportunities to visit on the wintery clear days when the wind blows from the north, which should make for crystal clear skies to capture those long exposure star trails and Milky Way marvels. Make sure to pack a torch and keep to the coast path for the walk back to the car.
iWalkCornwall has a few walks listed for the Bedruthan area.
If you want to get into walking, read my article, A Beginner’s Guide to Hiking and Walks.
This area would be amazing to stop and stay for a holiday or short break. Here is a list of hotels and holiday properties in the Mawgan Porth area.
