Last Updated on 5th June 2025
Mousehole (pronounced Mowzel) is one of my all-time favourite Cornish villages. Whether visiting for the day, passing through on one of my walks or staying over for family holidays, it packs a real punch of Cornishness.
My first visit to Mousehole was around 25 years ago for a family holiday. We stayed in a terraced house holiday home with views over the rooftops beyond the harbour. A shared backyard was the home of a tortoise. Memories of this holiday and its charms have stayed with us and often come up in reminiscing family conversations.
I visited once again with my wife recently after a trip to the nearby Merry Maidens stone circle. We walked the same streets, looking for any changes, as you do. Didn’t that used to be a grocery store? Oh look, that’s a gallery now! I’m sure that house was pink back then.
Having done the rounds, taken the photos, and enjoying the amazing scenery, we opted for the Ship Inn for lunch. This pub is on the front overlooking the harbour. It gets very busy in the high seasons, but mid-February is a great time to visit.
The Ship Inn was first referenced in 1846 and has had many uses – coroner’s court, auction house and brewery. It was purchased by Walter Hicks (St Austell Brewery) in 1901. Along with its low-beamed ceilings, it has an interesting shape. The dining area is triangular and at its furthest point, there is a mural of a ship’s bow on the open seas. The food and drink are great value for money – our meal was delicious and my pint of Proper Job was excellent.
Mousehole’s Past
The village is steeped in maritime history, dating back to the 1200s and maybe earlier. It is thought to have been in the parish of Paul (a village up the hill) since Anglo-Saxon times. Situated in Mount’s Bay, the home of St Michael’s Mount, it has always been an important fishing harbour.
In 1242, Richard, the Earl of Cornwall was returning home on a voyage from Bordeaux, France. A storm forced his ship to the rocky shores of SW Cornwall. Fearing for his life, he was able to locate safe harbour to wait out the storm. After the event, he remembered the natural harbour and likened it to a mouse in a hole (in latin – pertusum muris). In the 1500s, some 300 years after Richard’s lucky escape, Mushol, as spelt then, was still the first port of the English Channel.
Spanish Invasion
On the 23rd of July 1595, a flotilla of 4 Spanish galleys, having set sail from Brittany, raided the completely unaware village of Mousehole. No beacons, nor the guns of St Michael’s Mount were prepared for the attack, despite it being well known that Cornwall’s SW coast was the vulnerability in defences.
Mousehole was sacked, save for Keigwin Manor, a fine granite-built home of Squire Jenken Keigwin. He was murdered while trying to save his property. Keigwin Manor is now the oldest property in Mousehole.
Villagers fled to the villages of Paul and Newlyn. The Spanish soldiers also marched to Paul and sacked its cottages and church during their 3-day attack. They sailed back to Brittany through fear of Drake and his armies.
Building of the Harbour Walls
The first pier started construction in 1387. Although it was rebuilt in part over the years, some of it remains to this day on the south harbour walls.
It wasn’t until the 1870s that the north pier was completed to form the enclosed walls with a small entrance that you see today.
During the winter months, the harbour entrance is shored up with large hunks of wood to protect the village buildings and structures from the raging forces of the sea.
Tom Bawcock’s Eve
Christmas is a special occasion in the Mousehole calendar. Not just because of its Christian importance, but also to give thanks to fisherman Tom Bawcock.
From the writings of 1927, Mousehole and much of Cornwall suffered extreme weather conditions, preventing the fishing fleet from venturing out of the harbour. Consequently, there was little food. Tom Bawcock took it upon himself to brave the stormy seas during December to feed the people, especially the children, of the village for Christmas.
After some time of being at sea, the villagers’ concerns for his safety increased. They lit candles in their windows to guide his boat back home. On the 23rd of December, he returned with abundant fish for the village. There was rejoicing and jubilation. A huge stargazy pie was baked for all to enjoy. Tom is remembered every year on the 23rd December all around the harbour and, of course, in the pub.
The Mousehole Cat
In 1994 local author, Antonia Barber, published the Mousehole Cat. It tells Tom Bawcock’s story but with the addition of his faithful cat, Mouser (Mowzer). The illustrations are by a local artist, and Tom’s actual cottage can be recognised from the artwork when wandering the streets near the harbour.
Christmas Lights
The lead-up to Christmas is also special with lighting displays all over the harbour walls and up the hill. It is a magical time to visit Mousehole.
Visit or Stay in Mousehole
Indeed, Mousehole has become a gem of a tourist location at all times of the year. People stay in the village or visit as a day-trip. Along with the harbour and pretty cottages, there are some lovely shops, galleries and eateries for all tastes.
There are bus links from nearby Newlyn and Penzance. Parking is fairly restricted in the summer months and at Christmas. It’s best to use the car park near the village entrance from Newlyn at busy times. There is parking near the harbour at quieter times.
