You have been using a smartphone up until now and, because your photos are pleasing and often get praise, as a developing hobby, you want to buy a dedicated camera. So, what should you buy?
I’ve seen this scenario many times in photography blogs and forums. Each time I stumble across this topic, I usually get frustrated with the ‘wise-guy’ responses.
The ‘wise-guy’ response is to buy a Digital Single Lens Reflex (DSLR) or, more recently, a Mirrorless camera. This response often comes from those who have a qualification in photography, but not that many years of experience. Yes, it shows in their ramblings – they know all the technical stuff, for sure, but they lack field experience. They also overlook that many people don’t know the technical stuff and may not want to know it all. Often, people just want a wider playing field than a smartphone camera can typically offer.
There are two things to note…
- Cameras are both expensive and, the better the camera, the more complicated they are.
- Good trades-people never blame their tools. The best camera you have is the one you have with you!
Smartphone Cameras
The cameras in smartphones are pretty amazing nowadays. They really pack a punch in lens and software technology and quality. They often outsmart dedicated cameras, especially when the light is low in landscape and portrait scenes. I often turn to my phone for night shots of harbour villages or city street scenes. Although it should be noted, the quality of the smartphone image fades when you zoom in or need to crop it.
Smartphones also help to hone framing and composition skills. This is not easy to learn. We’ve all seen those photos with loads of sky and the subject way down low in the frame, maybe just their head. Also, some photos look like a jumbled mess with no clear point or subject. So, it doesn’t come naturally to everyone. Someone who has these skills can turn out as good a landscape or portrait photo with a smartphone as they could with a top professional camera.
A Reminder of Smartphone Practicalities
As an all-rounder design, smartphones are very good at landscape and portrait photography. Many people are unaware of the features that many smartphone cameras have. For example, the ability to pick out faces or for the user to tap an area to automatically focus on. They tend to come with two or more lenses. These tend to be separate cameras under the bonnet of modern smartphones. If you don’t zoom and just use the default lens setting, you’ll find that the photograph yields a higher quality output than if you had zoomed. It’s down to the optical quality of the lens and camera behind it rather than leaving it to the phone’s software for a digital zoom interpretation. You can crop to the section you want from an optical output to yield a satisfying close-up quality.
Then there is software for post-processing smartphone photos. I use Snapseed mostly, and it is pretty amazing. I can take the photo, apply an effect template, edit it, crop it and post it on a social media platform in minutes – while I’m still walking in most cases.
Let’s not also forget the quality of video output. Most smartphones can achieve 4K quality. Again though, it’s the lens that will govern the quality ‘as-viewed’. If you zoom while videoing, you’ll likely get the same degradation as seen with stills that I mentioned above.
Smartphones are usually fully automated, although some allow you to enter ‘Pro Mode’ or similar and do things manually. So, in moving to a dedicated camera, it’s a good idea to consider how manual you want to go.
It’s also a good idea to consider what you expect from a dedicated camera. You buy a camera, take it for a walk and snap some photos and, for argument’s sake, they are great. Then what? Maybe you want to get more specialised – macro or astro shots, or getting arty with depth of field characteristics (Bokeh is the in-word).
Manual Settings or Not?
Once you start using the manual settings on a camera, you need to know what these are and how they work, both on their own and together. It need not be too complex because most photographers tend to set their camera into either aperture or shutter priority mode. Aside from setting the ISO level, they need only change the aperture opening (more or less light) or the shutter speed (how long the shutter stays open) and the rest is automatically managed for them. Nevertheless, if you are new to the topics of ISO, aperture and shutter speed, it’s time to start learning.
Sometimes it becomes necessary to over-ride the camera’s automation. Things get a little out of control when there is, for example, too much contrast between the subject and its surroundings. Consider shooting for the stars and moon – there is yet more manual handling to be managed.
Sports and action shots are where dedicated cameras come to life but, again, you’ll need to learn and develop skills for achieving desirable results. Often, this is a speedy response to capture that flick of a moment in time.
There are controls on dedicated cameras to compensate or even ‘bracket’ the exposure of what is seen in the viewfinder. Bracketing is the ability to snap off a few shots and let the camera automagically set the exposure under or over the given value.
You’ll need a tripod for some of the topics I’ve mentioned, and maybe some other kit too – so something more to consider.
Conversely, my wife loves her photography and she has no interest at all in the technical merits of the subject. She gets framing and composition, and she goes to great lengths in setting up her shoots. Her photographs often turn out beautiful, and she does it with a Sony Cybershot camera. It’s with her wherever she goes – both smartphone and camera – and it fits nicely in her handbag or coat pockets.
All-in-one Digital Cameras
Yes, you can be considered a photographer with the modern-day equivalent of what we used to call a ‘point-and-shoot camera’. They are known as ‘all-in-one digital cameras’ nowadays. The results from these can be stunning. They are fully automatic with the added ability to dial in settings for different scenarios – snow, seaside, fast action, macro (close-up), night scenes and more. Some have the ability to override the auto settings should there be a need.
They come in a range of prices from £40 to £frightening! If this takes your interest, I suggest considering how good your smartphone camera is – a look at the specifications. It’s pointless opting for a £40 all-in-one if it has lesser capabilities than your smartphone.
When assessing these cameras think about your specific needs. This list can also be applied to DSLRs and Mirrorless cameras (below) but, for example…
- A viewfinder or back-screen or both?
- Should the back-screen move or be rigid?
- The range of automated settings?
- The zoom range and quality? Optical is better than digital
- Flash capabilities?
- Video quality and ease of use?
- The merits of the camera sensor – measured in Megapixels? Though most cameras have adequate sensors nowadays.
- The overall weight and ease of use of the controls? I have fat fingers!
- The additional controls and features – are these needed, useful or just adding to the cost?
- Battery capacity – how long will it last out in the field before needing a recharge?
- The software supplied to get the photos off the phone and onto your laptop?
- The software to edit or post-process your photos? This can cost from £0 to £lots.
- The manufacturer? I put this on last – branding matters to some, but good brands tend to cost more.
Look at the specifications and reviews. Sometimes reviews can be daunting but, overall, can be quite telling. There will always be negatives but look for the good between the lines.
While many of these types of cameras are compact, some are shaped more like a DSLR or Mirrorless camera, except they have a fixed lens (not interchangeable). They are known as Bridge Cameras, as they span the merits of both All-in-One shooters and DSLR or Mirrorless cameras.
If this appeals to you, look to this list of All-in-One Digital Cameras from Amazon.
DSLR and Mirrorless Cameras
DSLRs and Mirrorless cameras tend to be aimed at the hobbyist, enthusiast or semi-pro and professional markets. A Mirrorless camera is pretty much the same in all aspects as a DSLR except there is no mirror behind the lens to reflect the light from the lens up to the optical viewfinder. This gives the Mirrorless camera a bit more of an edge, reducing the mechanics to lift the mirror out of the way to allow light to get to the light sensor. There are some additional technical merits in Mirrorless cameras, but traditionalists often sway to their trusted DSLRs for a number of good reasons.
A problem that Mirrorless cameras and some All-in-One types have is their power consumption – they use more power than DSLRs. So you need to be mindful of recharging or having a spare battery on longer trips.
They have electronic viewfinders and/or back screens. As with smartphone screens, it’s not always clear to view on bright days. Also, as an older chap, I would need to put my reading glasses on to view an electronic viewfinder (it’s like a tiny screen that mimics an optical viewfinder). I use the viewfinder extensively but, on and off with glasses out walking in all weather, it’s not for me.
Both DSLR and Mirrorless cameras have the ability to change lenses. They are bought with or without (body only) a lens. There are often good kit bundles available that pack a relatively good price than you would pay if buying a body and lens separately.
The price range starts from around ten times that of the All-in-One range. A top-of-the-range DSLR or Mirrorless will set you back over £5,000 for the body only. Yes, staggering prices! So, you need to know what you want and how much you are prepared to pay for it.
Don’t be put off by entry-level cameras. They are entry-level for the manufacturer, but they come with an abundance of features and the photos are of great quality. If you intend to get into wedding, portraiture or marketing photography as a pro, then you’ll need the additional quality and expense of a ‘full-frame’ camera.
DSLR or Mirrorless?
Well, that’s the question. I read lots of photography magazines and it strikes me that both they and manufacturers are pushing a bit too hard for the newer mirrorless technology. Take on board what you read in magazines is often sponsored by the manufacturer, so there is a bias.
However, in broad-brush terms, a DSLR will weigh more, be bulkier in size, have longer battery life and the starter range will be less pricey. The Mirrorless range will be more compact and lighter – maybe bordering on being too light. You’ll see it mentioned that they are geared more toward bloggers, so they perhaps have better video features.
DSLRs currently have a far better range of lenses to choose from. Simply because Mirrorless technology is newer and the lens range is new and growing.
There is a price difference. These are two great cameras for beginners – one a DSLR and the other a Mirrorless…
Canon EOS 250D DSLR with 18-55mm Zoom Lens
I could have included the Nikon D3500 DSLR but, as an avid Nikon user, that might seem biased.
Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark IV Mirrorless with 14-42mm Zoom Lens
If a DSLR or Mirrorless camera fits your needs, take a look at these digital camera offerings from Amazon.
This is a good round-up of the DLSR v Mirrorless debate.
The Used Market
I have never bought a new dedicated camera. Yes, it’s true. All of my cameras, from my early teens to my 50s, have all been second-hand. As you can imagine, the prices are lower, but I can almost hear you worrying that things might go wrong.
First off, I have bought on eBay and other used goods outlets, but I have regretted it. I was too naive to know what to look for and the quality of the items wasn’t great on arrival. Yes, the bids were low because the items weren’t that good.
I look to dedicated used camera gear outlets now. There are a number of them around. I particularly like MPB – they buy and sell cameras and lenses. My trusty D7200 and, now, several lenses are from them and they haven’t let me down.
My first DSLR was a D40. It came with a kit lens that I still use the most. I bought that from a local chap who used to come into my wife’s gift and art shop. I got to take a good look at it, and use it for a week or so before paying him. Don’t forget your family and friends!
Look also for renewed or refurbished stock. The link to Amazon’s list of digital cameras above, look carefully and you’ll see that many are listed as ‘renewed’.
You can save a great deal of money, especially if you are stepping into unknown territory.
Of course, when you get further into photography, you’ll want to buy more kit – lenses, bags, tripods, lighting, software and more. There are good deals out there if you are prepared to buy used kit.
I hope this article has helped in some way. Leave your views below.
You may also be interested in my article, Best Photo Storage and Backup Methods.
