Late September on the last day of summer, I had plotted a circular walk from Polzeath to Port Quin, onto Port Isaac and back again.
As the route map shows, this is a figure of eight that crosses over at Port Quin. The whole walk is about 15 miles but could be split into two smaller circular walks.
Here is a GPX file for download. Read my article, Top Tips: Mapping & GPS for Hiking, to find out more about GPX files.
Take a look at these maps and books on walks around Port Isaac and the Cornish North Coast.
Polzeath to Port Quin
The walk starts about a mile out of Polzeath in Lundy Bay Carpark (National Trust and free). From here I took an anti-clockwise route via the lanes and public footpaths to do the inland part of the walk first. Turn right onto the lane from the car park.
At the Bee Hive shop, it’s a little confusing because the public footpath isn’t signposted. I walked over the cattle grid towards the shop and then turned right. I went through two gates (farm gates as opposed to kissing gates or styles) and two open meadows. The second field has a style in the corner at the end, along with a Public Footpath sign that points back from where I had just walked. It’s satisfying to know that it actually is a public footpath.
From here on, the rest of the inland part of the walk is relatively straightforward and quite easy-going.
Port Quin could be the point where you turn back to Polzeath on the coast path if you want to do this as a shorter circular walk. See the details below to pick up the coast path.
Take the lane to Port Quin, which is an unspoilt coastal cove and hamlet. Often, when I write about villages and hamlets, it’s difficult to find interesting facts to include. Here, at Port Quin, there is very little to see. It is a beautiful area with a rocky beach and an abandoned house. However, Port Quin has lots of history.
Port Quin to Port Isaac
Port Quin is the cross-over point for this figure-of-eight walk. As the lane ascends out of the hamlet, the public footpath forks off to the left. It’s a footpath all the way to Port Isaac.
Port Isaac
This is a thriving Cornish town. It’s been popularised by the TV drama, Doc Martin, as well as being the home of the male shanty singers, Fisherman’s Friends and the film of the same name.
When I visited, there were still lots of holiday-makers and visitors like me milling around the town centre. That makes me happy because tourism plays such an important part in the Cornish economy.
I decided to walk up through the town and out to its east side. There’s a very narrow alleyway that I just managed to squeeze through with my backpack on. I’m pleased I did this because of the magnificent views back to Port Isaac and the coastline. This side has the town’s main car park for visitors.
Port Isaac is worth dropping into at any time of the year and would be a fabulous holiday or short break destination. Here is a list of holiday properties in and around Port Isaac.
Port Isaac to Port Quin
It was time to head back, so the route heads out to the coast path. While getting here was easy, the return was anything but! In no time, after Lobber Point, the coast path confronted me with some serious rises up to the cliffs. That Stairway to Heaven at Pine Haven made my legs wobble after 100 steps or more. You have been warned!
The coast path has its most undulating section in the first third of the route back. After this, it still has its ups and downs, but not as severe and strenuous. This is worth thinking about when considering which direction to go for this circular. Maybe the coast side first, clockwise, would have been better.
However, the workout is really worth it with unbelievable vistas and views. There was a bit of a sea haze on this day and I had to enhance my photos a little during post-processing to lift them.
The coast path cuts across Varley Head and onto Greengarden Cove. It passes Scarnor Point and Downgate Cove to reach Kellan Head. The path then curves around SE as it descends into Port Quin.
Luckily I had some coffee left in my flask and biscuits for a well-deserved break.
Port Quin to Polzeath
Keep to the coast path to head out and across Doyden Point where there are remains of Doyden Castle. The path moves on SW to pass by the wonderfully named coves, Gilson’s, Pigeon and Epphaven to Pennywilgie Point.
Further on is Carnwaether Point. Passing by Downhedge and Pengirt Coves, the route progresses on to Com Head, which marks the start of Pentire Head.
To the north of Pentire Point is known as The Rumps. On the way is Sandinway Beach. The scenery around here is breathtaking.
From The Rumps trek WSW to Pentire Point. Turn the corner and it’s the home straight to Polzeath.
Polzeath
The beach here has been a favourite of my family for years. It’s great for surfing all year and safe swimming in the summer months when the RNLI Lifeguards patrol the beach. There are plenty of shops, amenities and food outlets for the family to enjoy. It’s also very close to Padstow. Read my article about visiting Padstow.
Polzeath and the surrounding area would be great for a holiday or a short break. There is so much to see and do in this beautiful area. Take a look at these hotels and holiday properties in the Polzeath area.
For me, a rather lovely sunset was developing nicely over Hayle Bay when I arrived. It’s a shame that I didn’t have time to stay and watch it, I’m sure it would have been spectacular. I had to get up the hill, through New Polzeath, to get back to the car park. Then an hour or so drive back home.
I recorded 15 miles on my tracker and, what with the tough-going coast path, I was glad to get home for a sumptuous meal and a warm bath.
Thanks for reading this article. I hope it has enthused you to take a walk in this area. If you want to get into walking, read my article, A Beginner’s Guide to Hiking and Walks. There are many health benefits to walking by the coast, as well as the fab photos to be captured along the way.
Please add your experiences of this area below.
